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Glossary of hair care terms

A glossary of hair care terms — structure, curl pattern, routine concepts, ingredient categories, and damage types — explained in plain language.

Written by Support
Updated today

A quick reference for the words that show up over and over in hair care, ingredient lists, and the Rituala app. Bookmark this — you'll want to come back to it.

Structure & properties

  • Cuticle: the outer protective layer of each hair strand, made of overlapping scales. Whether they lie flat or stand up determines porosity.

  • Cortex: the inner layer of the hair shaft. Contains keratin and pigment. Gets damaged by chemical processing.

  • Density: how many hairs you have per square inch.

  • Texture: how thick a single hair strand is (fine / medium / coarse).

  • Porosity: how easily your hair absorbs and holds moisture.

  • Elasticity: how much your hair stretches before breaking. Indicates protein/moisture balance.

Curl pattern

  • 1A–1C: straight hair, varying in coarseness.

  • 2A–2C: wavy hair, from loose to deep waves.

  • 3A–3C: curly, from big ringlets to tight corkscrews.

  • 4A–4C: coily, from defined small coils to tight zig-zags.

  • Andre Walker system: the 1A–4C classification system itself.

Routine concepts

  • Co-wash: cleansing with conditioner instead of shampoo. Common for curly/coily hair.

  • Pre-poo: a pre-shampoo treatment (oil, conditioner) to protect strands from cleansing.

  • Deep conditioning: a longer, more intense conditioner treatment, sometimes with heat.

  • Clarifying: stripping accumulated buildup with a stronger shampoo.

  • Chelating: removing mineral buildup, especially from hard water.

  • LOC / LCO method: Liquid → Oil → Cream (or Liquid → Cream → Oil) layering for moisture retention.

  • Plopping: using a t-shirt or microfiber towel to scrunch and dry curls without disturbing the pattern.

  • Pineapple: loosely gathering hair on top of the head before sleep to preserve curls.

  • Refresh: reviving day-2+ hair with water and leave-in.

Ingredient categories

  • Humectant: attracts water. Examples: glycerin, honey, hyaluronic acid. Behaves differently in dry vs humid climates.

  • Emollient: softens and smooths; many oils and butters fall here.

  • Occlusive: seals moisture in. Examples: shea butter, mineral oil, lanolin.

  • Surfactant: the cleansing agent in shampoo. Sulfates are strong surfactants; sulfate-free shampoos use gentler ones.

  • Silicone: a smoothing ingredient. Some are water-soluble; others build up.

  • Protein (hydrolyzed): small protein fragments that deposit into the cuticle. Examples: hydrolyzed keratin, silk, wheat protein.

Damage & treatments

  • Hygral fatigue: damage from too much moisture; hair becomes mushy and over-stretchy.

  • Protein overload: stiffness from too much protein; hair becomes brittle and snaps.

  • Bond repair: products that target the disulfide bonds inside the cortex (e.g., Olaplex). For chemical and heat damage.

  • Keratin treatment: a salon process that smooths cuticles, often using formaldehyde-releasing chemicals.


Run into a term that's not here? Ask Rituala — it can explain any ingredient or technique in plain language.

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